A Step Into the Bata Shoe Museum

Lunching with John and Ruth Fluevog

2012-01-24T15:40:00.004-05:00

By Sarah Beam-Borg – Exhibition Manager and Assistant Curator

Popular opinion and Hollywood movies tend to box museum work into two very disparate categories. The field is thought to either be hopelessly boring and dusty, or tremendously glamorous and exciting. Like many professions the reality is of course somewhere in the middle of the two extremes. Some days are pretty quiet and dusty which has its own appeal, and then there are those days that actually knock your socks off (if you’ll pardon the cliché).

Fox and Fluevog fashion boots mid 1970s

I had a pretty glamorous, knock-your-socks-off museum day today. I got to have lunch and spend the afternoon with the inimitable shoe designer John Fluevog and his winsome wife Ruth. It all started when John was chosen to be the Two/Ten Foundation’s Shoe Person of the Year for 2011. The Two/Ten Foundation is an organization whose tagline is “Shoe People Helping Shoe People”; it serves many functions but ultimately is a resource for knowledge and support in the footwear industry. The Bata Shoe Museum often donates the event space in the museum for the annual awards banquet when it occurs in Toronto; this year it will happen on January 24^th 2012.

I had a late-in-the-game thought on Friday January 20^th that I would like very much to meet John Fluevog when he is here in Toronto and so I sent out an email requesting to take him to lunch. I was pretty sure that he would be booked solid and that I might get a polite but firm “good try” email from his staff. I was delighted on Sunday night to receive an email from John himself, letting me know that he and Ruth were free and looking forward to lunch with Elizabeth our Senior Curator and myself on Monday (much late-night scrambling to find something appropriate to wear ensued).

They arrived at the museum on Monday looking impossibly fashionable and casual; very much the Vancouverite’s birth-right. All four of us immediately hit it off and we had a delicious lunch at Bar Mercurio across the street where John very candidly told us about the highs and lows of his long and impressive career in the shoe industry. He shrugs off the title shoe designer several times over the course of the meal and insists that his shoes are instead a manifestation of his world-view. One look at his shoes will tell you that he eschews the fashionable silhouette of each decade in which he works and instead embraces an off-trend and totally unique style. Fluevog shoe wearers are devotees, he enjoys cult leader-like status among his fans who purchase, wear and collect multiple pairs.

Early Fox and Fluevog wooden clog with silk-screened leather upper – early 1970s

The Bata Shoe Museum has long been interested in John’s work and we’ve collected eight pairs and singles. It is not easy for a museum to collect contemporary pieces because it is difficult to truly understand the style of a decade while living in it; therefore the Fluevog pieces that are in the BSM’s collection are here mostly through the generosity of donors. They are a curious mix of his iconic and unique works; from an early leather and wood clog to a unique pair of leather and acrylic Absolut Vodka shoes which were made by John and Ken Rice as a one-off and were collected by Mrs. Bata for the museum in 1995.

Fluevog and Rice’s Absolut Vodka Shoes 1994

When I first moved to Toronto in 1997 and started working for the Bata Shoe Museum I went a little crazy in the many glorious shoe stores around the city. I visited the John Fluevog store on Queen Street West often in search of the perfect pair; in 1999 I found a pair of silver suede wedges with a cantilevered, glittery silver, acrylic heel from the Lift-Off Orbit line. They were my absolute favorite shoes and I wore them often with an equally silvery outfit (it was the late 90s; trust me it worked then, but I’m glad I don’t have photos of the whole outfit, it was a little “much”). As my sense of style shifted to a more conservative tack, the shoes sat in the back of my closet and it was not until my husband and I moved to a slightly less closet-rich condo that I was encouraged to move them along. I chose to donate them to the museum’s collection where I know they’ll be well maintained and treasured in perpetuity (a fate much more favourable than the back of my closet).

Sarah’s silver Lift-Off Orbit shoes from 1999

After lunch, Elizabeth and I took John and Ruth down into our two large storage rooms where they oooh-ed and ahhhh-ed for a few hours. It is always fun to take shoe designers down into storage but this afternoon was really special. John and Ruth really “know” shoes; from design to fabrication they are steeped in the subject. I took them through storage aisle by aisle and their interest never waivered, they were consuming so many visuals that by the time we left to get back on the elevator they looked like they had been drinking from a firehose. To finish the visit, I took them through our galleries so they could get a sense of how we take our collection of over 13,000 pairs of shoes and interpret them for our visitors.

For me the visit was a highlight of my fourteen year career at the Bata Shoe Museum, for John and Ruth it was a visual feast and hopefully the first of many times they come and see the collection. I am trying not to over-state my excitement and sound ridiculous so I will sign-off by saying how wonderful it was for me - in this increasingly globalized world where we are further and further away from the genesis of our consumer goods - to meet the man that designed one of my favourite pairs of shoes.

Conservator's Blog - Czech Dance Boots

2011-10-25T11:16:00.002-04:00

Contributed by Bata Shoe Museum Conservator Ada Hopkins

In April I went to the Czech Republic to install an exhibition for the Bata Shoe Museum at the Egon Achiele Art Centrum in Český Krumlov. The first two days I spent in the industrial city of Zlin where the Bata Shoe Company was started in 1894. One of these days was spent in the company of the Director of the city-run Shoe Museum.

My host took me on a tour of her museum; then we drove to meet with a shoemaker in a very small town northeast of Zlin called Kelc. The shoemaker learned his craft as a teenager and had been making traditional Bohemian, Moravian, Slovakian and other regional special occasion boots and shoes for local folklric dance troupes for more than 50 years. His shop was filled with all kinds of machinery and the walls were covered with a multitude of paper pattern pieces.

The shoemaker's shop interior

One style of women's boots involves accordion pleating of the boot shaft, made from an extended length of leather. The Bata Shoe Museum has several pairs in its collection and the method of achieving this effect has always been a mystery.

Boots before pleating

The vamp of the boot is hand embroidered, the components are sewn together and then the upper is lasted to the sole; the final stage is pleating the leather. The leather of the boot shaft, which can measure up to 80cm, is wetted thoroughly along with an application of a water soluble adhesive (or size). The carved, deeply notched wooden last is pushed into the boot until it rests on the insole. The wet leather is pulled down over the form, wedging the excess into the recesses of the last until the entire length has been creased in place.

A historical last from the Shoe Museum, Zlin

The boots are left until the leather is completely dry. When the last is pulled out of the boot, the shaft retains its permanent accordion pleating with the finished height measuring around 52cm. Brass nails are hammered into the heel in a decorative pattern. These beautifully embellished boots complement an even more elaborate outfit that is decorated with fabulous embroidery, multiple colourful ribbons and layers of starched lace.

Finished boots - from the Bata Shoe Museum's collection

Interning at the Bata Shoe Museum

2011-05-26T13:41:00.002-04:00

By Kelly Smith

On May 2nd I began a four month internship at the Bata Shoe Museum. This internship marks the completion of the Museum Management and Curatorship program at Flemming Collage which includes two semesters of classes with a third and final semester of hands-on training. My week began by becoming familiar with the collection. Within the first two days I had explored South Storage, where the Western Fashion and the Ethnographic collections are kept. I was immediately drawn to the medieval shoes where the leather is worn, dark brown or black. In addition to these, I have always been fascinated by historical movies and their costumes, which led me to the 18th century footwear, which are full of brocade and ribbons.

18th century brocade shoes. Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum

I enjoyed having the opportunity to examine the shoes for the simple reason that they are such a personal artifact. They tell us so much about the wearer and the social context from which they come. The shoes inform us about what was important to the wearer. For example, they may have wanted to have the most eye-catching shoes at a ball, or keep their feet warm and dry during rainy season. When my time of discovery in storage was complete I had only made it half way through the room!

On my second day at the Museum we took the ever popular Justin Bieber's shoes to Sick Kids Hospital, where they were put out on display during a rock star party. Kids had the opportunity to come down to the atrium with their parents to enjoy music, arts and crafts and, most importantly, to get their picture taken with a teen dream's shoes! The kids went wild for them! Boys grinned behind the sneakers, while girls struck their best diva pose for the opportunity to have their picture taken with the 'Bieb's shoes!

Some young fans of the 'Biebs' pose with his shoes at SickKids

I have been lucky to take part in many field trips so far in my first three weeks at the Museum. Besides Sick Kids, I also went on a trip to the McMichael Canadian Art Collection in Kleinburg where two pairs of shoes which belonged to Marilyn Monroe and are now part of the BSM collection were on display as part of the McMichael's fabulous Marilyn Monroe exhibition.


Marilyn Monroe's shoes at the McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum

One of the projects I will be undertaking during my time at the Bata Shoe Museum will be to curate a small exhibition on the B1 level of the Museum. I'm excited to learn more about the collection and pick a topic which will be educational and informative. I hope that it will be ready to install by August 2nd. I am feeling confident that I have found the perfect topic for my exhibit, but I don't think I'm ready to give away that secret just yet!

Conservation Blog - Jazz Age Dress

2011-05-11T11:12:00.003-04:00

By Conservator Ada Hopkins

Sometimes there isn't enough time to perform a compete treatment on an object and the resulting work I refer to fondly as 'guerilla conservation'. It is done quickly, with minimal materials, but conservation intervention is adequate for the purpose; in this case displaying a dress on a mannequin.

For the Roaring Twenties exhibition the Museum borrowed two dresses from a private collector; one is decorated with sequins and beads; the other is cut-velvet. As is usually the case with beaded dresses from this era, the weight of the decorative elements impact negatively on the extremely fine silk to which they are sewn. This in combination with the stress of wear and 70+ years of dubious storage can cause the fabric to tear, primarily around the neckline and armholes.

Dress armhole - before

Interior view of silk crepeline


Dress armhole - after

The objective of the treatment was to support the tears and dangling beads and sequins to mitigate existing damage and prevent future deterioration.

Normally if there was more time I would have dyed the silk selected to back the tears a compatible colour, however, since it would not visible it ultimately did not matter. Silk crepeline, a very fine and lightweight, was hand stitched to the back of the tears with silk thread sewn in a grid-like pattern to distribute the weight of the beads and sequins. Seam binding was stitched to the shoulder seams to reinforce these weak areas.

The next step was mounting the dress onto the mannequin. This is an art in itself. One has to be familiar with the undergarments of the period so the dress will 'hang' in the appropriate manner. I searched the library and online resources to find an image as a reference. This resulted in two patterns manufactured for the home seamstress which are essentially rectangles with straps. Very easy to duplicate! A slip was made for each dress from a plain silk weave.

Mannequins in their slips

Mannequins having hair appli

Once the hair and shoes had been applied to the mannquins, they were installed inside the casework. Then they were ready to be clothed: first the slip, then the dress and finally the arms. Et voila - two 'flappers' ready for a night on the town!

Dressed mannequins in the Roaring20s gallery

The Roaring Twenties Opening - by Guest blogger Florence McCambridge

2011-04-19T14:57:00.007-04:00

The Roaring Twenties: Heels, Hemlines and High Spirits

After the initial excitement of being invited to the Bata Shoe Museum for the launch of the new Roaring Twenties exhibition wore off, the fear set in: I had no idea what to wear. I went through my closet and quickly discovered that I didn't own much of anything inspired by the twenties. Still, I did the best that I could with what I had and made my way to the event this past Tuesday night.

As I walked through the main entrance of the shoebox-shaped building, I was immediately greeted with the music of Liberty Silver and the Jazz Kats, which set the perfect tone for the evening. I sipped on a sweet sugar-rimmed Parisian Sidecar cocktail and moved through the crowd made up of mostly women dressed in their best flapper looks. There were glittering headbands, endless strands of pearls, and of course, sparkling shoes to finish the whole look off.

Parisian Sidecars were the featured cockta

Liberty Silver and the Jazz Kats

After nibbling on some delicious hors d'oeuvres and listening to the introductions of the night, a couple of Charleston dancers led the way up the stairs to the exhibition, and I followed closely behind them.

In her introduction, Sonja Bata said that the Bata Shoe Museum used shoes to tell you about another time period, and this was definitely true of "The Roaring Twenties: Heels, Hemlines and High Spirits".

Spectator Shoes - Hellstern and Sons, French late 1920s

I went in not knowing much about the 20s other than what I'd read in the The Great Gatsby and various Coco Chanel biographies, and I would have never imagined that I would have anything in common with the women of that time. But as I glanced down at a pair of menswear inspired shoes that looked eerily like a pair that I currently own, I realized that we were more alike than I thought.

The exhibition allows you to get up close to the glittering heels and the floral and textured fabrics of the shoes. You learn all about the footwear designer Andre Perugia and about why T-strap shoes were invented (hint: it has to do with dancing the Charleston!). And most importantly, you get to see what life was like for the women of the 1920s in the most entertaining way possible,which is through their shoes of course!

Shoes and shoebox by Andre Perguia, French, 1920s

And it doesn't have to end when you leave the exhibition. The Bata Shoe Museum also has a lecture and movie series to let you get even deeper into the Roaring Twenties. You can take in an illustrated talk by any of the scheduled speakers, or you can watch a movie set in the 1920s, such as La Vie En Rose, Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, and Some Like It Hot.

On my way home I remembered something that Liberty Silver said in between songs. She was talking about the twenties and asked the audience "Can you imagine yourself back then?" Originally my answer was no, but after taking in the exhibition I think that I can.

The Roaring Twenties Opening - by Guest blogger Caitlin Dyer

2011-04-18T10:55:00.001-04:00

Roaring Twenties Exhibit Opening is the Bees Knees!

On Tuesday, April 12th, 2001, the Bata Shoe Museum kicked off their new exhibit on the Roaring Twenties with a bang! The glitz and glamour of the 1920's was taken to heart both by staff and guests, who turned up in their best Jazz Age outfits. Sidecars, a cocktail which originated in the 1920's, were on offer alongside fabulous appetizers provided by Encore Catering. Guests were serenaded by the sultry sounds of JUNO Award winning artist Liberty Silver and the Jazz Kats while costumed dancers demonstrated the Charleston. If that wasn't enough to keep you entertained, silent films from the 1920's were projected on the wall.

To offcially kick off the evening we heard from the MC Jaymz Bee, Fashion Magazine editor Bernadette Mora, Senior Curator Elizabeth Semmelhack and the Museum's founder Mrs. Sonja Bata. You see Mrs. Bata's remarks here. We were then 'danced' up the stairs to the exhibit.

The exhibit itself was the best part of the evening for me. As a lover of shoes and a public historian there is nothing I like better than history presented through shoes! The exhibit chronicles the rise of the flapper and the greater freedoms that women enjoyed during the 20's as exemplified through spectator sport, bathing and dancing shoes. Visitors are able to compare the fashion of the 20's to conservative boots from the preceding decade and the escapist metallic leather shoes of the Depression years. This elegant travelling wardrobe full of shoes in like art for the shoe lover and my favourite part of the exhibit, second only to these sparkly t-strap pumps.

Perugia shoe box and shoes

Louis Vuitton shoe trunk

Overall, the evening was a roaring success. The projections, music, dancing and themed drinks set the mood and the exhibit itself was the icing on the cake. Or should I say the bees knees?!

Cinderella - The Glass Slipper Debate!

2011-03-30T16:58:00.002-04:00

One of the last things you see before you leave the Bata Shoe Museum is a comment and suggestion box where we encourage people to share their thoughts on the things they've seen during their visit. One comment which we see on a regular basis relates to an area in our All About Shoes exhibition dedicated to one of the most famous shoe stories of all time - Cinderella. There is a debate surrounding this fairy tale that many people ask about. While there are many versions of Cinderella that differ through time and culture, the one most familiar to Western culture was written by Charles Perrault in 1697. Some think that the Perrault version of the fairy tale suffered a mistranslation and Cinderella's famous glass slipper was actually a fur shoe in the original telling of the story. This is a question that is also a source of much conversation on the internet, so we thought we'd ask Bata Shoe Museum Senior Curator Elizabeth Semmelhack to weigh in on the debate.

"Some suggested that Perrault's Cinderella wore a fur shoe rather than a glass one, arguing that the French term verre (glass) was a mistranslation of the term vair (fur) and noting that fur slippers were highly valued in the past. But all aspects of dress in Perrault's story were pointedly contemporary, and fur slippers were not in fashion at the end of the 16th century. Furthermore, when the slipper is place on Cinderella's foot, it is proclaimed to fit as though it were made of wax - meaning it was absolutely form fitting. The rigidity and individual fit achievable through a bespoke (as it were) glass slipper moulded exactly to Cinderella's foot would have confirmed her identity. A fur slipper would have had "give" and would have fit any number of people."

Whatever you think of Cinderella's choice of footwear, because this fairy tale has a shoe as one of it's stars, it is always a topic of interest to Museum visitors. We are happy to be able to show visitors that this version that we know and love is just one of the many cultural variations of this story that has delighted children all over the world. Next time you visit "All About Shoes" make sure you take a minture to learn about Korean Cinderella, Dutch Cinderella and Egyptian Cinderella!

Conservation Blog - Perugia Shoe Box

2011-01-31T14:23:00.001-05:00

We're very excited to introduce a new blog feature that will be appearing on a regular basis, the Conservation Blog. The Bata Shoe Museum's Conservator, Ada Hopkins, will be giving readers an insider's look into what's involved in conserving the artefacts which pass through her hands. At the Bata Shoe Museum it is our practice to conserve rather than restore. We believe that worn footwear has more significant cultural meaning than unused pristine shoes. Signs of wear such as stretched leather, dirt on soles, even alternations and modifications, are evidence that these are real shoes worn by real people.

Conservation Blog 1 - Perugia Shoe Box
*We've had some feedback inquiries about this shoebox - please see the end of the blog entry for extra information on shoeboxes in the BSM collection

In preparation for each new exhibition, in this instance the upcoming Roaring 20s, all the shoes that will tell the story are selected by the Curator. Then the Conservator, that's me, looks at every artifact to determine its condition for display. The items that require treatment are set aside to be worked on before the installation date.

For this exhibition there were several pairs of shoes that needed minor intervention such as securing loose beads, tacking down loose ends of decorative embroidery threads and finding replacements for missing buttons. The artifact that required the most attention was a beautiful shoe box from Perugia who was a famous Paris-based designer.

Perugia shoe box, 1921-29

It's your standard shoe box with a base and a lid however the paper that covers it is stunningly embossed with a fern-like motif worked on a purply-black paper. The interior is divided into two compartments and is completely covered with a mottled muted khaki green paper.

Inside of shoe box shows two comapartments - one for each shoe

The exterior corners of the base are scuffed but overall this component is in very good condition. The box lid is a different matter: the cardboard and both papers are torn on three of the four corners. In order to make this displayable these corners need to reinforced plus it gives the viewer a better sense of how the box presented itself originally.

Torn and twisted paper elements were humidified so that they could be realigned. Then they were reattached to the box with wheat starch paste. Little weights, as well as small sections of acid free blotting paper to absorb excess moisture, were place on top of these spots until the adhesive dried.

*When this shoebox was purchased, it did have a pair of Perugia shoes inside. However they were not the shoes that were described on the label glued to the end of the shoe box (the label reads "Satin noir pierreries" - Black Satin Rhinstone). At some point in their lives these items had been erroneously paired. That said - it's a really fabulous shoe box that stands on its own as an artifact and the museum does have other boxes in the collection that do not have shoes. For instance, there is one from Bally that dates to the 1930's, a box from Herbert Levine from the mid 1970s and an early Eaton's shoe box mismatched with a pair of men's shoes. The earliest date for a matching set includes a pair of white satin button boots worn by a bride at her wedding in 1874. Another example includes four pairs of black satin button boots from 1875 that originated in Paris but were acquired from an estate in Chile.

These are the shoes that were purchased by the Museum with the Perugia box, but they are NOT the shoes that were originally sold in this box.


Perugia shoes, 1924-26 which were purchased by the Museum in a mismatched Perugia box

Inspiring the Artist

2010-12-21T16:44:00.001-05:00

For centuries shoes and shoemakers have inspired artists. From devotional depictions of the shoemaking saints to evocative interpretations of the elegant high heel, artists have explored footwear's rich symbolism and striking shapes in myriad artworks. Currently on display until early 2012, Art in Shoes ~ Shoes in Art highlights the Bata Shoe Museum's own collection of shoe-related artworks from rare 15th century woodblock prints to whimsical 20th century sculptures.


La laborieuse cordonniere by Charles Philippon. French and English c. 1835

Historically, shoemaking was a predominately male profession but in the 19th century the advent of industrialization saw many women employed to bind uppers. The colour lithograph (above) depicts one of these workers as a lovely young woman putting the finishing touches on an assortment of fashionalble footwear.


Adelaides, 1830s-40s

This pair of ankle boots (above) date to the period of the print and are very similar to the pair being made by the young shoemaker. Upper-class women's footwear in the first half of the 19th century was often made using luxury materials such as silk and fine wool and all the details on the footwear were hand-finished. Fashionable women's footwear was also remarkably narrow.

Habit de Coronnier by Gerard Valck, Dutch, 1690s.

Gerard Valck was inspired by Nicolas de Larmessin II's Costumes Grotesques: Habit d'Arifice and created even more fantastical costumes for his own prints. Shoes and shoemaker's tool are cleverly used to construct the shoemaker's outfit. The cuffs of his jacket are decorated with pigs bristles, his belt displays shoe lasts and his hat is comprised of fashionable shoes for men and women.

German or Austrian, 1680-1730

The elegant pewter guild flask in the shape of a shoe with a square toe and a screw top was probably a presentation gift. The honoured guests or presenters names are engraved on the sole of the shoes, indicating their titles: Stefan Walder, Oberzechmeister, Franz Eglseder, Jungmeister and Alebede Marg, Meister.

Providing Warmth and Protection

2010-12-01T13:56:00.000-05:00

The Bata Shoe Museum's collection of footwear worn by the cultures living in the world's circumpolar region is the largest comprehensive collection in existence. These shoes and boots are made to withstand some of the harshest climates that humans can endure. Whether they are made from seal, caribou, or fish, they can provide the warmth and protection that is needed on snow, land, ice and in water.

The Bata Shoe Museum is committed to the collection, documentation, and care of the circumpolar collection, and we are equally committed the study of circumpolar peoples through field trips and living ethnographies. It is through these field studies that we can explore the construction of the footwear and the sewing techniques of the women who made them. This blog entry will look at some of the circumpolar artefacts in our collection from various regions of the world.

The upturned toes and colourful felt and leather decoration on these Anar Saami reindeer hair boots are typical of Saami footwear. They are made from the relatively rare white parts of a reindeer hide which was reserved for weddings and important ceremonies. This pair was made in Finland by Helena Naakkaalaajaarvi.

Colourful and elaborately appliqued cotton boot shafts and liners are the hallmarks of Nanai boots. Made in 1994 by Anna Michailovna Beldi of Sakhalin Island - which is just between Japan and mainland Russia, these boots feature fish skin soles and vamps which would be water-proof and lightweight.

Most Ungava seamstresses follow traditional kamik patterns for their haired seal skin boots. This pair was made by Mary Luuku of Ivujivik and can be identified as being for a girl or a woman because of the dark triangle skin pieces sewn horizontally into the boot shaft. Seal skin is a popular choice for Inuit kamiks because of its water resistant qualities.

"JUNO Sole" opens at the BSM!

2010-11-16T13:06:00.007-05:00

The Bata Shoe Museum was very excited to open our latest exhibition, "JUNO Sole" in partnership with CARAS - The Canadian Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences- on November 10th, 2010. The night before the Museum and CARAS held a special evening opening, hosted by JUNO Award winner Jully Black, who's spirit and enthusiasm lent as much to the night as her sparkly gold Manolo's added to the exhibition!

On the afternoon of November 9th, Museum staff put the final touches on the new gallery while event and JUNO staff members began the task of transforming the Museum into a venue which would host an evening full of shoes, music, fashion and wine.

At 6pm, the red carpet was filled with photographers who snapped pics of celebrities and guests arriving in anticipation of being the first to see this exciting new gallery. One of the many highlights of the red carpet was the arrival of Jully Black.

Jully not only entertained the crowd, but also gave a wonderful introduction to both Sonja Bata and CARAS president and CEO Melanie Berry, both of whom spoke about the what the opening of this exhibition means to the Museum and the JUNO Awards. After the speeches, guests, including Canadian musicians Hawksley Workman, Sarah Slean and Fred Penner enjoyed listening the sounds of the in-house dj, reading what others were saying about the party on the "Twitter wall" and of course,the cutting of the ribbon to offically open this new exhibition which we hope will delight visitors until the gallery closes until November 30th, 2011!

For more video clips of "JUNO Sole" opening night celebration, please visit the
Bata Shoe Museum's YouTube channel

Bata Industrials

2010-10-28T16:11:00.000-04:00

For the last two months the world has watched the incredible story of the trapped Chilean miners play out on television and the internet. There was worldwide concern for the safety of these men and worldwide relief as their amazing rescue unfolded. This is one of those situations where everyone truly wishes they could do something to help. One group who realized they actually could help was Research and Design team at Bata Industrials Latin America. The story of what they created to help the miners is fascinating to the staff of the Bata Shoe Museum because of the way this organization was able to use their technical knowledge to create a product which could make an immediate change to the comfort and health of the trapped miners.

While the 33 miners remained trapped underground, one of the aims of the rescuers was to try and make the miner's situation as liveable as possible until a rescue could be achieved. One of the many discomforts the miners suffered was that their feet had become cold and painful, and many were developing fungal infections as a result of the humidity. The Research and Development team of Bata Industrials were determined to find a way to help ease this situation. But because of the small diameter of the tube which was the only was to access the miners, fitting a shoe down intact was not possible. The solution for the team at Bata Industrials was to create a shoe which could be sent down in sections and then easily reassembled by the miners.

The result was the creation of a shoe that was collapsible in order to be sent down the narrow tube. The boots featured hydrofugated leather with high water resistance and flexible rubber outsoles and outer socks which were created using a breathable membrane As quickly as possible, these elements were created, packaged and sent down the narrow tube to the miners where they were successfully reassembled and worn the by trapped miners. A picture of part of one of the shoes even made the front page of the Toronto Star when it was sent back up by one of the miner's as a souvenir for his waiting wife!

http://www.thestar.com/news/world/chile/article/874426--chilean-miner-s-wife-continues-vigil

The Bata Shoe Museum is proud to be able to display an example of these innovative boots. These boots show how the ingenuity of this development team proved that there really is the right footwear for any situation!

St. Crispin's Day - The Patron Saint of Shoemakers

2010-10-25T12:22:00.014-04:00

Today, October 25th, marks St. Crispin's Day, a day that traditionally has been celebrated as the feast day for the patron saints of shoemakers, Saint Crispin and his brother Saint Crispianus.

The story of these two brothers has become somewhat obscured by the passage of time, but legend has it that the two saints were sons of a 3rd century patrician Roman family who converted to Christianity. Disinherited because of their religious choice, they turned to shoemaking to make a living. In order to try to escape the persecution of Christians in Rome. the two brothers moved to Soisson, France where they began preaching and making shoes for the poor. Their charity and pious activities became well known and soon their activities were noticed by Roman authorities had them arrested.

According to legend, the brother's refusal to deny Christianity resulted in numerous tortures. First they were fitted with millstones around their necks and thrown in a river, but miraculously the stones fell away and they swam to safety. Next, they were thrown into a vat of boiling lead, but rather than being harmed, they splashed about like children in the molten metal splattering lead into the eyes of their tormentor, thereby blinding him. Various other tortures were visited upon them but each had no effect until they were finally beheaded on October 25th in the late 3rd century.

In the 6th century, a church was erected in their memory in Soissons. An alter also exists for them in the parish church of Faversham in Kent, England, where another version of the story suggests the brothers escaped and continued to preach and make shoes for the poor.

The brotherly equality, piety and earnest labour of Saints Crispin and Crispianus made them inspiring examples for many European shoemakers and eventually they became known as the patron saints of shoemakers.

One of the most famous moments which calls attention to St. Crispin's Day is the motivational speech from Shakespeare's " Henry V" where the King rallies his troops for the Battle of Agincourt which occurs on St. Crispin's Day.

Footprints of the Napoleonic Wars - Part 2

2010-10-14T10:48:00.001-04:00

As well as artefacts from Napoleon and those connected to him, the Museum's collection also boasts personal effects from those who were fighting against him in the Napoleonic Wars. Two of the United Kingdom's most important military heroes, Arhur Wellesley, Duke of Wellinton and his counterpart on the sea Admiral Horatio Nelson, victor of the Battle of Trafalgar are also represented in our collection.

It was at the Battle of Waterloo in present-day Belgium that Napoleon's tyranny was finally quashed. The celebrated Duke of Wellington, later Prime Minister of England (1828-30), was known for being a driven leader, indifferent to comfort yet careful in his dress. In 1815 he penned a short note to Mr. Hoby, his London bootmaker: "The last boots you sent were still too small in the calf of the leg and about an inch and a half too short in the leg. Send me two pair more altered as I have above directed." Now in the Museum's collection, this letter marks the point at which boots of this style became known as "Wellingtons", the Duke's unlikely legacy to modern footwear!

This pair of buckles belonged to Lord Nelson, commander at the Battle of Trafalgar, one of the most significant naval victories of the Napoleonic wars, and the battle which claimed Nelson's life. His remarkable ability to motivate others was the "the Nelson touch" and he was well-respected by sailors and officers alike.

Stored in a smart leather case and finely engraved, Nelson's bejewlled buckles were a 45th birthday gift from the great English seaman, Lord St. Vincent. They are inscribed "To Admiral Viscount Nelson from St. Vincent, 29 September, 1803."

In the same year, England declared war on France and Lord St. Vincent named Nelson Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean. Later the ornate buckles came into the possession of the great beauty Lady Meux, who caused a stir in London but riding around in her carriage drawn by zebras! In 1905, she presented the buckles to Lord Charles Beresford, a British Admiral and Member of Parliament.

Footprints of the Napoleonic Wars - Part 1

2010-10-05T15:31:00.001-04:00

It would be difficult to overestimate the impact of the Napoleonic Wars (1804-15) on Europe - indeed on the world. The map of Europe was redrawn and the ideals of the French Revolution led to reforms in many countries. In this blog post and the next, we'll look at some artefacts from our collection which provide a glimpse into the real-life details of historical figures from this very important time.

Napoleon Bonaparte, whose large and charismatic personality inspired many, was both celebrated and feared for his brilliant military strategy. He became the most powerful man in France and instituted many social changes, including the Napoleonic Code, a significant factor in establishing the rule of law in may countries. After being defeated at the Battle of Waterloo, the "Emperor or France" ended his days in lonely exile on the British island of St. Helena. One of the Museum's most prized treasures is a pair of Napoleon's socks worn during that six-year period.

Napoleon's socks from his time in exile on St. Helena

Count Walewski's dress shoes reflect a popular fashion of the 1840's

Napoleon's great love for the Polish beauty Countess Marie Walewski was well known. He fondly labelled her his Polish wife and he fathered with her an illegitimate son, Count Alexandre Florian Joseph colonna-Walewski. The Museum has a pair of dress shoes which belonged to Count Walewski. As a publicist, actor, soldier, politician, government minister and ambassador, the Count would have worn shoes such as these on many formal occasions. Much like his father, he took pride in his appearance and in this instance, we see an attention to fashionable trends, evidenced by the silk openwork detailing of the vamp.

Count Colonna-Walewski married his first wife, Catherine Caroline Montagu, daughter of the Ear of Sandwich in 1831. Her elegant pink shoes are part of the Museum's collection and they embody the allure of a delicate countenance. Their rose hue and full bows hint at her fashionable style.

Pink silk shoes belonging to the Count Walewski's first wife, 1830

Celebrating Celebrity Shoes - Mikhail Baryshnikov

2010-09-21T12:09:00.000-04:00

"These plain black oxford platform shoes belie the fascinating story of their entry into the Museum's collection. Their original owner, Mikahil Baryshnikov was born in Latvia in 1948 and became a soloist with the Kirov Ballet of Leningrad (now St. Petersburg), Russia in 1964. These are the street shoes he was wearing when he defected from the USSR, seeking political asylum in Toronto in 1974 when the Kirov was touring Canada. Baryshnikov gave these shoes to a friend who kept them as a memento, eventually donating them to the Museum in 1996. Baryshnikov continued his career in Canada and the United States, going on to become one of contemporary ballet's most well recognized dancers. "
Ada Hopkins, Conservator

Shoes Fit For a Princess

2010-09-15T10:43:00.012-04:00

The Bata Shoe Museum has in it's collection three pairs of shoes which belonged to the late Princess Lilian of Belgium. Born Mary Lilian Baels in 1916, she was the second wife of HM King Leopold III of Belgium, who reigned from 1934 to 1951.

A 'commoner', Princess Lilian faced criticism from some members of the public. She had secretly married the King in September 1941, not only shortly after the death of the King's popular first wife, but also during World War II, when the country was occupied and the people were suffering.

After the war, King Leopold did not return to the throne. Unable to overcome the nation's negative opinion of his war-time conduct and remarriage, he bestowed his constitutional powers upon his son Baudouin in 1950. The King and Princess Lilian led a quiet life in Argenteuil, travelling and working with charities. It is at philanthropic and social events that the Princess would have worn the shoes acquired by the Museum, with customized and matching Christian Dior outfits.

Princess Lilian was known for her glamour and sense of style, and this is evident in her elegant footwear. The shoes now in the Museum's collection were custom designed for Princess Lilian by Roger Vivier, one of the most innovative shoe designers of the 20th century. He maintained an eye for cutting edge design, referencing the history of fashion while incorporating modern elements of science and engineering. The Museum is delighted to have these shoes, rich in both history and beauty, in its collections.

Photo of King Leopold with Princess Lilian who is wearing a red chiffon dress, hat and the shoes pictured above.

Celebrating Celebrity Shoes - Drew Barrymore

2010-09-09T14:37:00.004-04:00

"These black patent Mary Jane shoes were worn by Drew Barrymore to the Youth in Film awards in 1984. I chose to highlight these shoes because they were worn by Barrymore shortly after she starred in the movie "E.T.: The Extra Terrestrial", which was a transformative movie for many people in my generation. E.T. is the first movie that I can ever remember seeing in a movie theatre; watching a young girl that was my age, acting in an extraordinary movie while munching on popcorn was pure magic."

Sarah Beam-Borg, Assistant Curator

"Shoe Stories" Chronicle the Past

2010-09-06T16:42:00.014-04:00

When looking at some of the intriguing artefacts in the Bata Shoe Museum, people are often curious to have more information then it's possible for us to provide for each item on display - who did they belong to, what do they tell us about the historical period they came from, what is that shoe's story? Beginning this fall, we're introducing a fascinating series of podcasts which will take an in-depth look at some of the "shoe stories" in our collection. As a sneak peek, here are the stories of two exemplary artefacts.

The cherished footwear of two 17th century ladies reveals the importance of shoes in their lives. This pair of 17th century slap-soled shoes is so exceptional that when the Bata Shoe Museum acquired them at a Sotheby's auction in England, an import license was originally denied on the ground that they were irreplaceable examples of British cultural heritage.

Slapsoles, Possibly made in Italy and worn in England, c.1660's.

These slap-sole shoes were once the property of the descendents of Frances Walsingham, whose secret marriage to Robert Devereux, the last favourite of Queen Elizabeth I, may have contributed to his downfall. The attenuated toes reflect 1660's fashion and suggest they may have been a gift to one of Walsingham's family members during that decade. They certainly must have been considered a prized possession as they have remained in the family of her last husband since the 1600's. Visual evidence of the origin of the slap-sole, which was originally a mule and a heeled sole joined together, almost disappears in this late version of the style. The mule is no longer a structural component of the shoe but is simply indicated by a decorative braid outline.

On the sole of this finely crafted mid-17th century mule is an inscription which reads "Sarah Hammersley, Prince William III".

Mules, England c.1670-89

It has been established that Sarah Hammersley was the daughter of the Lord High Mayor of London, but why does the name of Prince William appear? Prince William of Orange became King William III of England in 1689. This information helps to date the mules to before 1689, but we are still left to ponder what connection Sarah may have had to the Prince. Do these beautifully shaped mules reflect her taste, or that of Prince William?

All images copyright 2010 Bata Shoe Museum

Adorning the Feet

2010-08-31T13:58:00.002-04:00

At the Bata Shoe Museum, as an international centre of footwear research, we house more than just shoes in our collection. Many societies have found other ways to adorn and decorate the foot as a part of traditional culture. An example of this can be seen in our large collection of Indian foot and ankle jewellery.

In the West, sandals were worn by both men and women in the Classical Age, but they fell from favour at the advent of the Middle Ages. For centuries feet remained concealed in shoes and were only revealed when sandals came back into fashion in the 20th century. In many other parts of the world, however, the foot was not so sequestered from view but rather was pampered and even ornamented. In India, women of the upper classes traditionally devoted a great deal of time to the care of their feet. Feet were bathed, massaged with scented oils and the soles were often dyed with red lac or henna. Ankle bracelets and toe rings added the final touches to these pampered feet.

Foot scrubbers, Rajashtan, 19th century (Photo: John Bigelow Taylor)

Footscrubbers were traditionally an important part of an Indian woman's toilette. The base of the bronze scrubbers are typically cast with a rough surface for rubbing the skin while the handles are sculpted to incorporate motifs such as birds, animals and scenes from everyday life.

Ankle Bracelets, India, Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, c. 1900 (Photo: John Bigelow Taylor)

Although women throughout India traditionally wore ankle bracelets, there is a wide range in variations in design. This silver pair (above) features brightly coloured enamel work. Enamel was used extensively in Indian jewellery making to enhance the brilliance and lustre of a woman's embellishment.

Fish toe ring, India, Orissa, Oriyan, 20th century

Toe rings were another favoured foot ornament in traditional Indian culture. The silver fish on the toe ring, which is a sign of fertility and abundance in India, would have seemed to swim with every step the wearer took!

For more information and images relating to traditional Indian footwear and foot adornments visit the exhibit "Paduka: Feet and Footwear in the Indian Tradition" in our virtual museum All About Shoes.

A Collector's Story

2010-08-25T11:02:00.081-04:00

Herbert Levine c.1962-64

One of the questions we get asked most at the Bata Shoe Museum is how we acquire the shoes in our collection. While we collect shoes in a variety of ways, one of the most important is through donations. While museum quality shoes are not easy to come by, some individuals manage to amass beautiful collections of rare and special artefacts. This is the case with collector Katherine Woodward who has donated several beautiful pairs of fashion shoes to the Museum. A shoe enthusiast who lives in Pasadena, California, Katherine was happy to tell us about her history with footwear.

"I loved shoes so much as a kid I insisted on wearing new pairs to bed. I studied fashion merchandising in college and have worked in retail for over 25 years in many capacities including visual display, public relations and sales consulting. While working at Nordstrom and Macy's I collected most of my personal shoe wardrobe. At the start of my fashion career shoes were chosen to complete a look, say a monochromatic colour story. Now I purchase unique, fun shoes with personality that can be worn to make a fashion statement on their own. I see shoes as sculpture more than for adornment or functionality."

Katherine, who studied fashion in college, has donated seven pairs of designer shoes to the Bata Shoe Museum. Once her collection grew too large for her home display space she contacted the Bata Shoe Museum about donating some of her best items to ensure they were properly cared for and preserved. Her donations have been a great addition to our collection and have appeared in multiple exhibitions. One pair is currently on display in our "Fashion Afoot" display, and has the distinction of being Katherine's first major find. These blue sling-backs, designed by Charles Jourdan for Pierre Cardin, were found by Katherine in a thrift store for only $20.00 in 1992!

Pierre Cardin c. 1967-68

Some other amazing finds Katherine has made are 3 pairs of Roger Vivier shoes (her favourite designer) for $20.00 each in a vintage boutique in South Pasadena, California. Her luck at finding shoes of this quality at these prices shows what you can find when you look hard enough! Katherine was kind enough to donate one of these amazing pairs and a matching handbag to the Museum where they appeared in our "Icons of Elegance" display and accompanying catalogue.

Roger Vivier c.1966-68

Katherine's passion for shoe collection continues today as she keeps her eyes open for the next find great find. Still on the list - her first pair of Ferragamos!

All images copyright 2010 Bata Shoe Museum

Celebrating Celebrity Shoes - Elizabeth Taylor

2010-08-23T11:33:00.000-04:00

"Elizabeth Taylor, one of the great actresses of Hollywood's golden age, has lived a life epitomizing the glamour and drama of the movie business. From her legendary roles such as Cleopatra, her much publicized romances (and many marriages!), and her lifelong involvement in charitable works, Taylor's life has been as dramatic and remarkable as any of the many movies in which she has starred. These glamourous silver sandals owned and worn by Elizabeth Taylor remind me of why the public continues to be intrigued and fascinated by the lives and loves of Hollywood stars."
Nicole Cahill, Marketing and Public Relations Coordinator

These autographed strappy silver stiletto sandals were designed by Halston and owned and worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the early 1980's.

Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum

Conserving History

2010-08-19T12:09:00.031-04:00

Shoes pre-conservation

As our special exhibition "On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels" comes to an end, the many rare and precious artefacts in it will be returned to either the European museums who generously loaned them to us or to the storage rooms of the Bata Shoe Museum. When presenting an exhibit which displays such rare and fragile items, it often means some of the artefacts will need to conserved and repaired in order to keep them in the best condition possible. This was the case with this pair of 17th century slapsole shoes. Among many of the conservation efforts made in this exhibition was a repair to the delicate 17th century fabric of these shoes.

These shoes had suffered serious fabric losses to both sides of the vamp (the upper part of a boot or shoe covering the instep and usually extending over the toe), as well as minor fabric losses along the topline. The silver filament metallic lace had unraveled around the corners of the toes and the backs of the heels. Our conservator, Ada Hopkins, needed to find a way to create a fabric which could be used to fill in these losses but not look out of place on a 17th century shoe.

In order to achieve this, a silk satin of similar weight was dyed in a hot bath of Earl Grey tea which was historically used to dye small batches of textiles and lace made from natural fibres. This method gives a pinky-yellow faded-antique colour to the bright white silk. Strands of hair silk were dyed to match in the same manner. Dyed fabric for each shoe was cut using templates which had been created by placing small pieces of plastic over the area of loss and tracing the outline. Next, tiny strips of an adhesive film were cut to the shape of the existing satin. The fabric infill was then inserted along with adhesive strips which are vapour activated. Any frayed fibres which had not been secured were then stitched into place using the hair silk.

Back seam of shoe

During the conservation of this shoe, a small treasure, a tiny section of the original coloured fabric which had not been changed by the effects of time, was discovered on the back seam of the heel. These unusual shoes were originally peachy-pink with shiny silver lace that would have glittered when exposed to the candlelight in the wearer's room!

This rare pair of 17th century slapsoles can be seen on display in "On a Pedestal" only until September 20th, 2010.

Slapshoes after conservation

"Art to Boot" at the Bata Shoe Museum

2010-08-17T10:07:00.005-04:00

Today is the first day of a new "snapshot" exhibition on display in our B1 foyer. Snapshot exhibitions are small-scale themed displays, on view for a limited amount of time. We are proud to have one of our favourite annual snapshot exhibitions on right now, "Art to Boot", a collection of artist- designed Blundstone boots which will be auctioned off as a fundraiser for Sketch, a wonderful organization which creates art making opportunities for street-involved and homeless youth or those who are considered to be at risk.

Judging Day at the Sketch loft

The Sketch experience starts at the organization's offices, where our Assistant Curator Sarah Beam-Borg is one of the judges in the Blundstone boot design competition. After spending some time in Sketch's amazing light-filled King Street loft, which is full of the incredible artwork of youth artists who benefit from this organization, the 20 pairs of Blundstones were transfered back to the Bata Shoe Museum to be prepared to exhibition.


Assistant Curator Sarah Beam-Borg puts the finishing touches on the "Art to Boot" exhibition.

Until September 22nd, these art pieces will be on display as part of regular admission to the Bata Shoe Museum. They will then be auctioned off at an event at the Gladstone Hotel on September 23rd. For more pics of this year's boots check out our Facebook page.

Just two of the 20 pairs of artist-designed Blundstones now on display

Celebrating Celebrity Shoes - Tennis Edition!

2010-08-12T11:59:00.014-04:00

This week, in celebration of the Rogers Cup, Canada's major tennis open, the Bata Shoe Museum is excited to show you two special pairs of shoes belonging to two men who are a part of tennis and sports history as one of the 20th century's great athletic rivalries!

"Björn Borg vs. John McEnroe, two of the best tennis players ever, met a total of 14 times between 1978 and 1981. To the pre-teen boy I was then they embodied what sport and life was all about. A Borg-McEnroe match-up was an athletic contest, but more fascinating still were the contrasting styles in which they played the game: the Swede always calm and collected; the American throwing tantrums and spitting insults at umpires. For me it wasn’t –and isn’t- a matter of choosing a favourite. What I admired in both of them was their total commitment to playing their best game, and the respect they showed each other."
Roger Hunziker, Education and Public Programs Coordinator

These tennis shoes were owned and worn by the two tennis greats - Borg on the left and McEnroe on the right. The shoes from Borg were bought at auction. The shoes from McEnroe were presented to Mrs. Sonja Bata at the Players International Champoinship (now the Rogers Cup) in 1984 at the National Tennis Centre, York University Toronto. He explained to Mrs. Bata that the shoes had a cut in them which he had made himself due to a foot problem.

Both shoes are signed and are part of the collection of the Bata Shoe Museum.

Check out these two amazing players battling it out in one of their most famous matches.

Celebrating Celebrity Shoes - Madonna

2010-07-30T09:52:00.008-04:00

"When I used to show visitors these shoes during tours, everyone was very impressed that they were worn by Madonna. But what always surprised people was that underneath the shoe, connecting the sole to the heel was a metal reinforcment put there so that the shoes were strong enough for Madonna to perform in them. I think this says a lot about the apparently effortlessness image of glitz and glamour that celebrities project and the much grittier work involved in keeping that image alive."
Anne Cobban, Director of Development

Madonna's ability to maintain a cutting-edge image combined with her versatile musical style, has made her a superstar for over 20 years. A great admirer of the fashion designers Dolce&Gabbana, Madonna's wardrobe features many of their daring desidesigns, such as this platform shoe that she wore in the mid-1990's. These satin platform pumps have the word "Mo" written on the label in black ink.

Celebrating Celebrity Shoes

2010-07-29T09:48:00.002-04:00

What can be more intimate or revealing than footwear? Not much. So it's no wonder that the Museum's semi-permanent celebrity exhibition, Star Turns, is extremely popular with visitors. Celebrities from all walks of life have left a footprint in our collection, and with the Toronto International Film Festival quickly approaching, the timing was perfect to ask the staff at the Bata Shoe Museum to select their favourite celebrity shoe and share some insight on why that shoe stands out to them

Starting tomorrow don't miss your chance to "step into" the Bata Shoe Museum and our celebrity collection!

Whose shoe do you think will be the first to take centre stage?

Star Gazing at the BSM!

2010-07-28T11:59:00.000-04:00

Welcome to the first blog entry by the staff of the Bata Shoe Museum! Here in Toronto we are gearing up for the annual Toronto International Film Festival which always sets the city on high celebrity alert! In celebration of this, we are going to be taking a look at some of the celebrity shoes in our collection which we display at various times in our "Star Turns" gallery. Over the next few weeks you'll see some of the favourite picks of our staff members and learn why they picked that particular shoe as a standout in our collection. Who'll make the cut and what's the story behind that particular shoe? Check back to find out!