This month's Community Spotlight features a Q+A with Henry VanderSpek, documentary photographer and curator of Old World Shoes, a fascinating exhibition exploring independent shoe and shoe repair shops in Toronto. On display at the Daniels Spectrum in Regent Park December 2, 2021 to January 3, 2022.

Can you tell us about your exhibition, Old World Shoes?

Old World Shoes is an exhibit celebrating older shoe and shoe repair stores of Toronto. It features portraits of store owners alongside interview excerpts where they share their insights and experiences gained from decades of serving their clientele and local community. I began working on this project in December 2017 and am excited that now, four years later, I am finally able to show my work.

How did you come up with the idea? Do you have any personal connection to the shoe industry or shoe stores specifically?

After my last documentary exhibit, Taxi Drivers of Toronto (2017 Contact Photo Festival), I found myself considering the rapid pace of change in Toronto and how small local businesses that have served a community for decades often disappear when redevelopment occurs, with little fanfare or recognition of all that they brought to our city.

I have no personal connection to the shoe industry, or any shoe stores. I have long admired the unique character and atmosphere in small local shoe and shoe repair shops though. There is so much for the eyes to take in, the product offerings are refreshingly different and the personal service is a nice change from most corporate chain stores.

Pictured is Antonietta Di Santo from Capri Shoes, a shoe repair and footwear company specializing in handcrafting shoes, boots and custom character footwear products for the entertainment industry.

Was it challenging to find people to interview for your exhibition? How did you go about your research?

I have a nice stack of business cards as a testament to how many store owners I approached for this project! I've learned while doing documentary work that I need to have a clear pitch as to what I am doing and why, when approaching possible participants, so that people can understand my vision and intent. Some store owners were immediately interested and others I had to return to a few times, out of respect for their busy work schedule, before they came on board. I found a few of the stores in my exhibit by using a search engine, but I found most of them by exploring Toronto's many great neighbourhoods and through tips that other store owners gave me when I interviewed them.

Pictured is Ellen Vivacqua, owner of La Parigina Shoes, a family run business that has been serving the Corso Italia neighbourhood since 1970.

What was one of the most surprising things you learned throughout this process?

I was surprised by how much there is to discover about the shoe industry in Toronto. The more people I interviewed, the more I learned about the rich heritage of shoemaking and manufacturing here. Most of my interviews with store owners were complete when the pandemic struck, so I had time to continue exploring more broadly, mostly via video conferencing methods. Historian and author Karolyn Smardz Frost helped me to discover Francis Griffin Simpson, a black shoemaker and engaged citizen in Toronto politics. A conversation with Elizabeth Semmelhack, Director and Senior Curator of the Bata Shoe Museum, gave me a much wider view of the Toronto context that I had been actively exploring. Alexandra Avdichuk, Supervisor of the City of Toronto's Collections and Conservation, allowed me to see first hand some of the wonderful shoe-related artefacts that the city has preserved from past generations. I have not been able to incorporate all of what I've learned into this current exhibit, but I hope in time, I can bring more of it to the forefront.

Pictured is Peter Feeney, owner of Peter Feeney Bespoke Shoes, a Toronto custom handmade shoe company located in The Junction.

Why did you decide to curate this exhibition? What would you like your visitors to take away from it?

My conviction that we need to celebrate and support small local businesses, like the shoe and shoe repair stores I feature in my current exhibit, has only grown during the pandemic period we've all been living through. I believe people are even more aware now of the challenges that they face. I hope though, that people will walk away from my exhibit with an even deeper sense of the value that small business people bring to a community. I also hope people realize that investing in well-made shoes is worth it as they can have a much longer life, which benefits your wallet and the environment.

Pictured is Lorena Agolli, owner of Sole Survivor, a shoe and boot repair shop in Parkdale.

When and where can visitors see Old World Shoes?

Old World Shoes is on exhibit from December 2, 2021 to January 3, 2022 at Daniels Spectrum in Regent Park, 585 Dundas Street East, here in Toronto. Click here for more details about the exhibit.

Pictured is George Aslanidis, owner of Yiorgos the Cobbler, a shop repair shop located in by Dundas St W. / Roncesvalles.

Do you have any other projects in the works that you’d like to share?

I always have a number of projects on the go. Nothing is confirmed for the coming year just yet, but I do have plans and aspirations! Please stay tuned via my website or social media accounts for updates on my next new ventures. Here's my social media: Instagram, Twitter, Facebook

As Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO) goes completely virtual, we wanted to take the opportunity and introduce you to five extraordinary Indigenous designers. Each day we’ll feature someone new and ask the same set of questions, from what gives them joy to how important community is. Our series will showcase their stories, offer a glimpse into their signature pieces and hear their personal visions for the future. Today let's meet Bobby Itta Designs. Join us and be inspired by Indigenous art and culture. IFWTO runs November 26 – 29 at IFWtoronto.com. 

As Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO) goes completely virtual, we wanted to take the opportunity and introduce you to five extraordinary Indigenous designers. Each day we’ll feature someone new and ask the same set of questions, from what gives them joy to how important community is. Our series will showcase their stories, offer a glimpse into their signature pieces and hear their personal visions for the future. Today let's meet HAND OF SOLOMON. Join us and be inspired by Indigenous art and culture. IFWTO runs November 26 – 29 at IFWtoronto.com. 

As Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO) goes completely virtual, we wanted to take the opportunity and introduce you to five extraordinary Indigenous designers. Each day we’ll feature someone new and ask the same set of questions, from what gives them joy to how important community is. Our series will showcase their stories, offer a glimpse into their signature pieces and hear their personal visions for the future. Today let's meet Mohawk Mocs. Join us and be inspired by Indigenous art and culture. IFWTO runs November 26 – 29 at IFWtoronto.com.

Melanie Squire, Co-Owner, Mohawk Mocs IFWTO Marketplace, until November 29

Can you tell us the story behind Mohawk Mocs? How did the company get started and what is your role?

Mohawk Mocs has been in operation under that name since 2016 when we decided to create a Facebook page to share our work, but my mother Nancy has been making moccasins for friends and family for over 30 years. My mom has decided to take a bit of a well-deserved break so I have taken over the Owner/Designer role.

If you were to take a look back to 2016, my technique has definitely changed (and definitely improved!) Typically, there are 4 of us (myself, Angus my Husband, my mother Nancy and my Aunt Tye) who produce moccasins for Mohawk Mocs and each of us have developed our own ways of doing things. I would say we each have our specialties. My mom is great at pattern making and it’s something I have started to be able to do on my own. My Aunt is great at prepping orders to be sewn and Angus’ speciality is our signature Work Boot moccasins. I think my niche is baby and women’s moccasins because those allow for a bit more colour and creativity. In a typical day in my workshop (my mom has her own at her house) you’d find both myself and Angus working on orders. The morning is when we prep completed orders and head to the post office to ship them out. Since I prefer to do beadwork at night, when things are quiet, afternoons are usually spent prepping orders for sewing. Prep consists of: cutting out, hole punching, attaching a rubber sole and adding the lining. Those steps are time-consuming and take a few hours but once that’s complete, I can generally sew up a pair in about an hour. Definitely the step that takes the longest is the beadwork. Depending on what design I’m beading, it can take hours to days. It’s never as simple as just choosing bead colours and beading the design. I find myself changing and having to “rip out” my work and start over a lot. I like for each pair to be unique and I work extremely hard at making the work my own. I don’t try to emulate work that others do, which can be difficult since everyone obviously beads the same things like flowers and strawberries, etc.

What distinguishes you from other footwear brands?

I think what distinguishes us from other brands is that we do custom, made to order moccasins. Some clients are very specific in what they want and others give me free artistic rein. It’s definitely helpful to know what clients envision, as long as I can put my own creativity into it. We hand draft our own patterns, so new styles are always emerging and tweaks to older styles happen very often.

What has inspired you? How do you incorporate this into your designs?

Traditional Iroquois raised beadwork inspires me, it’s so beautiful and I love that it adds dimension. My Great-Grandmother beaded a more traditional style of raised beadwork in the 1920s (that won her an award at the CNE). My aunt has the piece framed and it inspires me every time I look at it. I definitely gravitate to that style of beadwork, but mine would be considered contemporary because I like to use all types of beads in a piece rather than just seed beads.

Can you point out a few signature pieces and tell us about them?

Mohawk Mocs is definitely known for a few signature styles. We offer regular height, mid (just above the ankle), high (half calf) and knee-high options. Styles come in lace-up, wraps. More custom options include fur cuffs or fringe. We are well-known for our signature “Work Boot” moccasins – our take on boots that Ironworkers wear. Both my family and my husband’s are Ironworkers so it’s a nice nod to our roots.

I also use a huge variety of patterned and colored leathers to create exciting baby/toddler moccasins which are really popular as well. A challenging pair I’ve made was a custom request from one of our local (Six Nations) singers who wanted what I called “high/low” moccasins. While on stage performing, she wears them knee-high, and after, she can detach the calf wrap and they become a regular pair. It’s always fun creating one-of-a-kind pieces.

Do you see footwear as an important form of expression? In what way?

Footwear is definitely a very important form of expression, and in a lot of cases, what people notice first. Moccasins specifically are hugely important in Indigenous culture because all Nations have their own traditional styles. Some clients have moccasins made to match their traditional clothing so it’s always really important for me to be able to create a design that will match, especially if they’re for a traditional wedding. That’s what’s great about making customs, everyone has different tastes and it allows for more creativity.

How does community play a role in your vision for Mohawk Mocs?

Community is integral to our vision - to create quality, custom moccasins for the entire family. Because there are tons of moccasin makers not only in our home community, but throughout Turtle Island, we know that our products cater to specific clients. For the past few years, we have been asked to make entire graduating class pairs for one of our community schools and it’s always such an honour and will always be special each year. I always look forward to making moccasins for clients for Six Nations’ annual “Baby Show” as well. It’s so awesome to get photos from proud parents whose little newborns are wearing their very first pair of Mohawk Mocs.

What are your goals for the company? Has your vision changed with the pandemic? If so, in what way?

My goals for Mohawk Mocs is just to continue at a comfortable pace. Since we hand cut, hand sew and bead every pair, we can only accept so many orders per month in order to ensure the highest quality. Oddly, during the pandemic, we were very busy! Our vision remains the same, just to produce great quality, custom moccasins for the whole family.

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

Satisfaction comes when each pair is complete or when a client sends me a photo of them wearing and enjoying their moccasins. I always photograph each pair and add to our social media pages and it’s always nice to get “likes” but I definitely find joy in just being able to sit and create.

Where can our readers see your designs and purchase your products?

Our social media is kept up to date and you can find us on: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter

Orders can be placed by sending us a DM on all platforms. However due to the volume of Christmas orders, our next intake of orders will not be until the new year. We have some great pairs that are available for purchase during IFWTO’s online Marketplace from November 26-29, 2020. Local orders may be picked up or, we ship worldwide.

As Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO) goes completely virtual, we wanted to take the opportunity and introduce you to five extraordinary Indigenous designers. Each day we’ll feature someone new and ask the same set of questions, from what gives them joy to how important community is. Our series will showcase their stories, offer a glimpse into their signature pieces and hear their personal visions for the future. Today let's meet MOBILIZE. Join us and be inspired by Indigenous art and culture. IFWTO runs November 26 – 29 at IFWtoronto.com. 

Dusty Le Grande, Owner, MOBILIZE

Runway showtime: Nov 26 at 7pm ET

Can you tell us the story behind Mobilize? How did the company get started and what is your role?

The intention when conceptualizing and dreaming of creating a streetwear brand was that it must be intentional and impactful. The building stages of Mobilize happened while working alongside Indigenous youth, it became very evident that clothing was a huge part of how they identified – among the major streetwear brands there was no Indigenous representation. The brand started with an Instagram page that grew into an initial drop x website launch. The first launch sold out within a few days and from there began a journey of sharing Indigenous art and knowledge through streetwear.

To this day it’s about creating representation and a product that can contribute to the next generation being empowered. I am the owner, designer, creator, shipping guy, etc.

As a streetwear brand, what distinguishes you from other creators?

I have always loved streetwear because of the intention and message that are present within the clothing. I am creating solely from an Indigenous perspective but I acknowledge that everything I create has elements and influence from all parts of the world around me, as well as ancestral and spiritual guidance and influence. I create art and share stories that have deep meaning. I want to create things that have never existed before, always seeking evolution.

What has inspired you? How do you incorporate this into your designs?

I am constantly inspired by my children and the world around me. I try to find colour combinations from everyday life. I also find a great deal of inspiration studying nehiyaw historical art and clothing. Mobilize is a blend of street style, Indigenous clothing, and futuristic evolution.

Can you point out a few signature pieces and tell us about them?

The very first design produced was done in collaboration with my sister who created the art. It is a hoodie called the “Matriarch” and is intended to honor the Matriarchs who have led Indigenous people for all time. Our mothers, the life givers, are the reason we have survived and continue to thrive. “Lola” is a design launched by my oldest kiddo when they were 4. I share nearly everything I do with my children and my oldest had presented an art piece to me one day and told me, “papa this is my very first design”, the “Lola” hoodie features this art work. It is extremely special to watch my children dream. This hoodie will always be one of my favourites!

Do you see clothing as an important form of expression? In what way?

I believe clothing to be one of the most impactful forms of expression as well as self-love. When we walk into a space the first thing people see is our clothing. It is the initial moment where without words we can speak volumes. Furthermore, clothing when used intentionally, can speak loud, soft, gentle, harsh, and in many many other ways.

How does community play a role in your vision for Mobilize?

Community is the basis of everything I do. The Indigenous artistic community is filled with inspiring people who share knowledge and nurture the next generation. Our communities exist in many different forms and hold importance in every way. This is not only about the present community but the seven generations before us, the ancestors, and the seven generations to come. As Indigenous people, our communities are what has allowed us the resilience to heal and grow from the gross impact of colonialism. Community is everything.

What are your goals for the brand? Has your vision changed with the pandemic? If so, in what way?

My goals are always to empower and inspire others. When we have a world full of artist who can flow freely and share their art, we will have a much more beautiful world. I dream to take this brand to a global scale and hold space as an Indigenous creative for my communities. I would love to take the Mobilize experiences to fashion weeks such as London, New York, Tokyo.

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

Creating things that I have never been seen before or bringing to life designs/creations that come through dreams and spiritual influence. Art is an amazing tool to share fluid art that has influence on the energies and world around me. I acknowledge that nothing I create comes solely from my being but has important aspects of all that is around me.

Where can our readers see your designs and purchase your products?

The main source is the website at www.mobilizewaskawewin.com and the primarily social media space is on Instagram @m.o.b.i.l.i.z.e

As Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO) goes completely virtual, we wanted to take the opportunity and introduce you to five extraordinary Indigenous designers. Each day we’ll feature someone new and ask the same set of questions, from what gives them joy to how important community is. Our series will showcase their stories, offer a glimpse into their signature pieces and hear their personal visions for the future. Today let's meet SECTION 35.  Join us each day and be inspired by Indigenous art and culture. IFWTO runs November 26 – 29

Justin Louis, Co-Founder, SECTION 35 Runway showtime: Nov 26 at 7pm EST

Can you tell us the story behind Section 35? How did the company get started and what is your role?

My first creations started from redrawing old sports logos of teams from my reserve back in Alberta and selling them to friends. This branched into an idea for an Indigenous clothing brand. Back in 2013 there wasn’t a whole lot of brands like us and none in Canada. I met a friend in Vancouver who owned a print shop and I started using his shop to make some things before we decided that we had all we needed in the shop to start a brand. After 2 years of networking and small-scale sales we decided to push the brand out on a big scale to the world and in March 2016 launched our first website. From the start and to this day we are still a small team and I’ve been the creative director and driving force behind the brand since we started.

As a streetwear brand, what distinguishes you from other streetwear creators?

As a streetwear brand I think we have a unique story and we bring the struggles and dreams of our ancestors with us. In an industry where everything is about appearances and who’s who, we do our best to just keep it real with what we do. We’ve made a commitment to work with other Indigenous artists and creatives to support and push each other to the forefront and we do our best to maintain that commitment through every piece of our business. Because of this, you get to see a glimpse into the Indigenous world view through our art and creations, and without appropriation.

What has inspired you? How do you incorporate this into your designs?

I’m constantly inspired by politics, sports, art and fashion. I am inspired by certain streetwear creatives as well as my Indigenous creatives. I love to see creatives pushing the boundaries on what they can do and how they do it. Watching our people and friends of mine stand up for our rights and for the earth and water has inspired me immensely and continues to inspire me. And of course, being an old collegiate athlete, I am without a doubt inspired by sports and sportswear. I lived some of my most formative years in Southern California and the street and surf/skate culture live in a lot of my work and what I like to create.

Can you point out a few signature pieces and tell us about them?

I think some of the jackets I create have become some of our signature pieces. The Kill Mascots Save the People Camo Jacket was a piece I designed and was the first time we stepped into outerwear and not just printable items. From there I’ve gone on to make numerous custom denim jackets and hand painted leather jackets for fashion shows which I am extremely proud of. Our talking feather items have been a staple. From our hoodies to our custom New Era Fitted hats, the logo is strong and remains our signature.

Do you see clothing as an important form of expression? In what way?

It is, for me, 100 percent expression. This is my voice and my spirit. Everything you see is a reflection in some way of me and how I feel or was feeling when I was designing that item. I am inherently driven to create and share my art with the world, and that is how I express myself.

How does community play a role in your vision for Section 35?

Community is everything for us, and without community we are lost. From the very start of SECTION 35, I made sure that community was part of that vision. I wanted to be successful, but I also wanted to share that success and use it to give back to community. We run numerous fundraising campaigns every year to support different organizations, and use our growing platform to help amplify voices and messages that are important to us and our community. I am very proud of what we’ve accomplished to date and I hope to continue to expand as we grow. Without our community, we would not be where we are today and that is something that we never forget.

What are your goals for the brand? Has your vision changed with the pandemic? If so, in what way?

I have numerous goals. One of my main goals is to become a more sustainable and eco-conscious brand on every product we make. We are already making strides in that direction but it is a challenge that remains when it comes to affordability and pricing for small business.

Some of my other goals revolve around collaborations and people I would like to work with. I really want to do a shoe collaboration with a big footwear player, I’ve lobbied some folks I know with one of those companies, but it hasn’t got me there yet LOL.

While I wouldn’t say the vision has changed with the pandemic, I do think it has slowed down more than anything due to the challenges of the pandemic but also my role as a dad and being present during this time. I can proudly say that we are getting back on track and will continue to the extent that this pandemic allows.

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

I think almost every part of this process from the concept, to the final production, to seeing it shot in photos and someone wearing it in public. I don’t know anything besides being a dad, that beats having the full creative freedom of making your own art and designs to release to the world. Knowing that I’ve created this brand and everything we do from the ground up on our own is extremely gratifying and knowing that we’ve inspired numerous other artists and creatives to follow in our footsteps is really dope and humbling.

Where can our readers see your designs and purchase your products?

Social Media: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter

You can purchase our products online at the following on our website or Below the Belt

You can also find a list of SECTION 35 current in-store locations at the link below with more on the way here

We are checking in with our friends in shoe-related businesses to find out how they got interested in shoes, where the journey running a niche business has taken them, and what the future holds in a post COVID-19 world. Today we are talking to Stolen Riches! Fun fact, did you know that we sell shoelaces from Stolen Riches in our museum shop?

How long has the business been around?

Stolen Riches officially launched in 2011 but my family has been manufacturing laces since 1915. Thus the reference “Since 1915” in our logo.

What is your background? How did you make your way to the world of accessories?

This is a fairly long conversation but I'll try to summarize it for you.

After building and selling a number of companies in the digital channel, I was fascinated with the idea of creating a physical product. Up until that time everything I had done was "virtual/digital" (I come from a family of entrepreneurs, on my father's side.  My great-grandfather created Christie's Biscuits of "Mr Christie you make good cookies" fame and on my mother's side, my great-grandfather started a textile company called Textile Manufacturing). After building one of the top five digital agencies in Canada, I sold out to my partners in 2008 and went traveling around the world for a year with the notion of finding my next "big idea". It was during this trip around the world that I became fascinated with the idea of colour and how it changed even the most mundane of things - i.e. the spice markets in the Grand Bazaar in Turkey, Thailand and India.

After returning to Canada I started to think about what I wanted to do next and was intrigued by companies like Happy Socks, who had built a successful global businesses around adding colour to an everyday object to get us to think differently about it. I went to boarding school (Trinity College School) where our socks were blue, grey and black. Now socks are in bright pinks, blues and reds, stripes, patterns etc. Around this time I went to Harry Rosen to buy a pair of dress laces to replace a pair that had broken and they told me to go to my local cobbler. I asked myself, why did Harry Rosen - who is in the business of selling shoes not have laces for sell? There are probably a number of reasons why but I am sure one of them was that they did not view a shoe lace as anything but utilitarian. With this I began to start to think about how one could add colour/branding to dress laces to get people to think differently about them - it also helped that my family owned a textile company and had been producing dress laces since 1915 - or as my Grandfather used to say putting laces in boots through two world wars.

You are “leading the revolt against the ordinary.” Why do you think accessories are important?

Accessories allow individuals to personalize their look. We all have a blue suit in our closet that we wear to business meetings and weddings but depending on the socks, tie, pocket square or, dare I say, laces, one could totally change the look of their outfit.

How do you source out your products? What do you focus on?

We’ve always focused on creating premium accessories made in Canada.

Who is your typical customer?

Our typical customer is probably fashion conscious enough to want to stand out from the crowd. That being said, we sell a staggeringly large amount of black and brown laces so I think quality is important to our customer as well.

Since your business is primarily online, have you been affected by the COVID-19 pandemic? Has this resulted in changes to your business?

Without getting too deep into the numbers, our business is a combination of online and through retail partners like Harry Rosen. Given people were not allowed to leave their house for most of the spring, we’ve seen a considerable decline in sales through our retail partners. But as things start to open up again, we're starting to see a return to normal.

What have you found is an effective way to market your business? Has this changed in recent months?

The quick answer is quality. But for selling a quality product we would not enjoy the amount of word of mouth marketing that we receive, Oprah wouldn’t have selected us as one of her favorite things and GQ would not have written about us.

What are your top three most popular products?

Laces, wrist wear and our leather dopp bags.

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

If you love what you do it’s not work. It also helps that I get to (our used to) fly around the world and attend fashion weeks in Italy, France, UK and the US.

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer our questions! To learn more about Stolen Riches, visit their website here. Don't forget you can purchase their shoelaces in our museum shop!

We are checking in with our friends in local shoe-related businesses to find out how they got interested in shoes (or socks!), where the journey running a niche business has taken them, and what the future holds in a post COVID19 world.

How did you get interested in shoemaking? When did you start your company Nasser Vies Shoes?

I think the attraction to shoemaking was planted in me when I was nine years old, at the beginning of grade three. One day I skipped school to sit in front of the local shoemaker shop and watched him making shoes for few days, pretending to be at school, until my mother found out by the teacher himself, who happened to live in the neighbourhood. My first encounter with shoemaking lasted a few days.  I moved and finished high school, and came to Toronto, Canada 10 or 11 years later from Ahwaz, Iran in 1980. After two years of being in Toronto, shoemaking presented itself to me through the encouragement of a leather worker friend. I started learning how to make shoes, not realizing how difficult it was at first without an instructor.  Books were not enough to learn shoemaking.  Three years on my own and my progress was slow until I found a shop in the town of Dundas, Ontario where I joined as an apprentice.  Sitting across the bench from me was an 85 year old master shoemaker who taught me how to last shoes and boots well. The work was enjoyable, but time consuming. The shoes we made were mostly historical reproductions and live theatrical footwear.  When our shop owner decided to move to Nova Scotia, I moved back to Toronto and worked on perfecting my pattern making skills and saved some money to open my first shoemaking shop on the corner of Brunswick Avenue & Ulster Street in 1990.

Tell us more about your company, do you have a team working with you?

I don't have a team of shoemakers working with me but I have taken apprentices from time to time.

Your website shows that you offer shoemaking courses. What kind of shoe is the most popular with your students?

I started teaching a three week, introductory shoemaking and pattern making course about eight years ago. For beginners, we make a pair of Oxford and a pair of Derby shoes. These are principal designs and most designs are derivatives from them, so they must be learned first.  More advanced students can make the shoes of their choice or if they wish to learn one of the bottoming constructions like how to welt. The purpose of the course is to instill the love shoemaking in the students and give them a start they can build on after the course ends.

What challenges have you faced running your business? What is your vision for the company?

There are some challenges facing shoemakers working by hand in Canada nowadays. Looking back, there used to be last making companies, tanning companies and footwear manufacturing companies in Ontario when I first started in the early 80s. With the arrival of the internet, things got a little easier to source leather and tools from faraway places and gave shoemakers the ability to communicate with each other through online forums to share knowledge and resources.

Has your company been affected by COVID-19? Do you plan to make any changes to your business post-COVID?

You asked about the effect of COVID-19, it has been a loss of income for me and a lot of other self-employed people and many others. My first shoemaking course of 2020 was in March and we had to stop after a week. I also had to stop making custom shoes. I need to be close to customers to take their foot measurements and that was not allowed for several months and for good reason. I do stay busy making footwear but it is hard to predict how this will work out.  I have to learn to sell ready made products online.

Do you have a favourite shoe that you’ve made? Tell us about it.

My favorite shoe is a hand welted leather shoe. Anything less is not hygienic enough. Feet produce a lot moisture when walking; they perspire or sweat.  Leather breathes and allows this perspiration to evaporate. I have made many styles of shoes including golf shoes, cycling shoes, fashion shoes, shoes for movies, shoes for the theatre, historical reproduction shoes, clown shoes, shoes for people with feet issues, dress shoes for everyday functions and more. I am a custom shoemaker. The customers decide what they like to wear and I design and make them to fit their feet. I tried to make every shoe at least once. Every pair is unique; the way it is designed, closed and how it is bottomed. I am a long distance walker and a hobby bird watcher/photographer, I like to wear shoes or ankle boots with hand sewn apron/island on them as they are great when treading on unpaved/uneven surfaces.

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

Shoemaking is a gentle craft; one needs to have a good temper to carry on making shoes.  Making shoes the traditional way takes seven years to learn - from taking measurements, preparing the lasts and designing a pattern shoemakers follow 21 specialized steps to create a decent pair of shoes that fits well.  Perfection comes with time spent making the product and good teachers.

What gives me the most joy in my work is to see a good pair of shoes finished to the end with no blemish that fits my customer's feet well, no matter what kind of shoe it is.

Last words, cobblers are not shoemakers and shoemakers are not cobblers.

Thank you so much Nasser for taking the time to answer our questions! To learn more about his company, visit his website here.

We are checking in with our friends in shoe-related businesses to find out how they got interested in shoes, where the journey running a niche business has taken them, and what the future holds in a post COVID-19 world.

AS ANSWERED BY JESS, Studio Director at Mack

Tell me about Mack House. How did the idea come about and when did you open?

Mack House is a self service sneaker studio where people come to customize their shoes. Anyone of any artistic ability can come and we’ll guide them through the process of customizing their very own  pair of sneakers!

Sneakers can sometimes fall into two categories - either super exclusive and hard to get, or very widely available. Not able to find what she was looking for, our owner Shelby started looking into customization. Realizing that what she wanted to see wasn’t hard to do, she got some supplies and started doing it at home - everything from colourways to simple drips and splatter designs.

Shelby also found that the process supported her mental health journey. She has a very busy job that can sometimes be around-the-clock. Working on her shoes helped her to take moments to clear her mind and she wanted to share those possibilities with others.

We opened in June of 2019 and it’s been such a ride so far -  we can’t wait to see what’s next!

Why do you think sneakers are so hot right now?

As it was in the 80s, sneakers represent a combination of hip-hop, basketball, and pop culture mixed into fashion. The rise of athleisure has meant that people are dressing for comfort. Being at home and seeing documentaries like The Last Dance remind us of the history and how important and iconic some of these silhouettes are.

Sneakers are also hot because there's competition happening. You have the younger generation wanting to get their hands on them for the status or the investment. They see how much retro pairs are worth and are often hoping to resell for a profit, if not to wear. Then you have the sneaker lovers of the 80s who maybe couldn’t afford them at the time, but can now. The re-release of these once one-of-a-kind pairs are giving them a chance to relive that love and revisit that moment in their history.

 

Who is your typical customer?

We don’t really have a typical customer, which is great. We have kids who love art, adults who just want to give it a try, and sneakerheads trying for those missed colourways. It really keeps the days exciting when we don’t know who or what ideas are going to walk through our doors.

Why do they want to customize their sneakers?

People want to customize for a million different reasons - that’s what makes customization so important. Some want to replicate sneakers they couldn’t buy or create sneakers with colours they can’t find. Some want to commemorate a moment in time, a place, or even a person important to them. Shoes provide us with another opportunity to express ourselves so why not?

Is there a favorite sneaker that people customize? Air Force 1? Converse All Star?

Many people choose to customize Nike Air Force 1 sneakers because it provides a lot of options. People can choose to design a new colourway with the defined panels, or even remove the swooshes and rework the look. It really depends on their idea and what they want to see.

How does your studio work? Walk me through the steps to customize a pair of sneakers.

Once guests arrive, we get them positioned at the table and have them start prepping their shoes. While that happens, we do a tour of the room so everyone knows what supplies we have and where they can be found.  Once we discuss what each guest’s idea is, we get everybody set up with the tools for their first step and it’s off to the races. We continue to float between guests to see how everyone is doing and help if we need to. And then at the end, we finish the shoe and accessorize!

 

Have you had to make any changes to your business because of COVID-19?

To ensure safety, we have reduced the number of clients per session and spread the sessions out to allow for a more thorough clean of the studio in between. We have a table barrier to keep clients separated and provide gloves and masks that are worn the entire time.

How do you think COVID-19 will impact the popularity of sneakers?

With the majority of people working from home, I think the popularity of sneakers will continue to rise. People don’t have to dress up to go to the office. Sneaker drops and website releases used to happen at all random hours, but now people are always on their computers instead of camped outside of stores. Online raffles are more accessible to everyone, whereas before you used to have to go to a store for a physical raffle ticket. It’s more convenient now!

 

How do you get the word out about Mack House? What has worked best for you?

Word of mouth has been a great source of business for us. We manage our online presence and try to showcase as much of the experience as possible, but you don’t feel the same energy unless you’ve met someone who’s tried it. Building on those relationships with our clients is a big part of what makes our community. We often have some of them come back to visit and do it all over again.

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

Meeting our guests and seeing everyone’s creativity is so much fun. It helps to keep me inspired! And seeing the joy people have when they see their finished product and love it, there’s really nothing like it.

Thank you so much to Shelby from Mack House for taking the time for answer questions!

We wanted to highlight our volunteers in a new and exciting way! BSM Volunteer Spotlight showcases the incredible projects our volunteers have on the go. For our first spotlight, we are speaking with Ray Wolanin, who is one of our incredible front desk volunteers.

We’d love our audience to learn more about you, tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a pharmacist by profession and have since retired. I grew up in Beausejour, Manitoba, a small farming community 40 miles north east of Winnipeg. An active lifestyle to me is the key to quality living. Volunteer work has always been an important part of my life with past stints at the Aids Committee of Toronto and Casey House Hospice; the museum is my most current. Exercising also plays an important role in my day; I am a active YMCA member, work out 5 days a week, enjoy long distance cycling, classical music/opera, reading, playing bridge and I have run marathons in the past.

How long have you been a volunteer at the BSM? What do you enjoy most about it?

I’ve been volunteering at the front desk for well over 10 years. I most thoroughly enjoy interacting with the general public, especially tourists visiting our city. Having travelled extensively in the past, I know how much appreciated a welcome to a new city or country can be. Front desk volunteers provide that opportunity.

Tell us how you started your project about abandoned shoes - what inspired you to take photos of the first pair you came across?

While out on a walk one day in the city, I came across a pair of shoes next to a coffee cup on the sidewalk by the downtown Grosvenor YMCA.  I just thought, “how odd, who and why would someone, anyone, abandon a perfectly wearable pair of shoes?” It wasn’t just one torn old shoe that someone cast aside, it was a good pair. I decided to take a photo. Subsequently, I came across other pairs throughout the city at a variety of locations.

What is the most interesting shoe(s) you’ve come across?

My favourites are a pair of men’s brown casuals left by the turn-style at the College subway station and the three pairs of heels left on the sidewalk near Jarvis Collegiate (leftovers from a prom dance perhaps).

I noticed you take photos of a complete pair, is there any particular reason for that?

It’s important to note that I did not go about searching for others.  Other pairs were discovered when I least expected it. Photos were taken, compiled with dates and locations found. I mentioned this - what then became fun project - to several friends who on a few occasions found pairs in their area and forwarded their photos on to me to add to my collection. So the question in my mind arose; “why were they abandoned?" Of course, the answer to that question can be left up to anyone’s imagination. Hence the title of the slideshow/video, “Why are they there.....?” I think this shoe-related video might provide a bit of entertainment for online viewers - letting them suppose, in their own minds, the reason for abandonment, as well as displaying the many different types/styles of shoes left behind (e.g., heels, snow boots, athletic wear).

Do you have any other shoe-related projects coming up?

No other projects coming up at the moment!

You can watch Ray's abandoned shoe project below:

Thank you so much Ray for taking the time to answer our questions!

Today we are featuring Jennifer Allison from Art & Sole Academy to talk shoe business!

What is your background? How did you make your way to the world of shoemaking?

I initially studied Fashion Design at Ryerson University and during this time my specialty was evening wear. The thought of designing footwear had never crossed my mind! Upon graduation, I stepped into the footwear industry unexpectedly. My first corporate job was a Footwear Illustrator position and then I quickly worked my way up to becoming a lead Footwear Designer for various brands. Over the past decade I have had the opportunity to live and work throughout Canada, United States, South America, Europe and Asia fine tuning my craft and gaining industry experience with companies such as the Aldo Group, Abercrombie and Fitch, Awamaki and Pour La Victoire to name a few.

In the early days of working as a designer I felt really insecure about never having made a pair of shoes myself. At the time, I didn’t have a clear understanding of what went into the assembly process. My role as a designer was mainly to develop mood boards, concept sketches and then travel overseas for sourcing and product development. In order to further my understanding, I took the initiative to work closely with the technicians on the factory floor. They were a wealth of knowledge and provided me with the fundamentals I needed to become a more confident designer. The factory process however is very different than the handmade process and it wasn’t until moving to New York and later Peru, where I had the opportunity to take private classes from artisans to learn the art of shoemaking. During these sessions I acquired the skills to continue experimenting and making shoes for myself from start to finish! This experience sparked the idea for Art & Sole.

Tell me about Art & Sole Academy. What were your goals for the business?

I launched Art & Sole in 2014. I started off by offering pop up workshops out of the Bata Shoe Museum and Ryerson University. The positive response from these events provided me with the motivation to look for a permanent studio space. In February of 2015 I found the perfect space located in the Leslieville neighborhood and started offering full-time programming. My goal was to create a space where like minded individuals could connect, create and collaborate. I also wanted to make shoemaking accessible to a general audience. The classes were taught without any heavy industrial equipment and this enabled students to continue creating on their own at home.

Why did you choose to open the Academy in Toronto?

Toronto holds a special place in my heart. I was born and raised in Northern Ontario and moved to the city when I was 17 to study fashion. Throughout these years, I grew into my own creative voice as an artist and maker.

When the time came to choose where to set up shop, Toronto immediately felt like the right fit. Art & Sole is a very niche business and I knew in order for the studio to thrive it would have to operate out of a vibrant and diverse city.

There must have been challenges along the way. Can you share some of them?

Yes, so many challenges! One of our ongoing challenges is sourcing. Over the past few decades, footwear manufacturing in Canada has disappeared due to the competitive rates of overseas facilities. This shift, has made it really difficult to purchase proper tools, supplies and equipment for shoemaking.

I am fortunate to have kept in touch with the factories from my design days, although even with these contacts, it can be very difficult to meet the minimums required. From day one, I have self-funded the studio which has definitely had its pros and cons. This decision has forced me to grow the business organically and often slower than I would have liked at times. On a positive note, as a result I have become very resourceful. For example, In terms of materials, I often use up-cycled leather and source dead stock or scraps from other leather companies such as upholstery and apparel brands. By using the offcuts from other companies, it keeps our raw materials down, reduces waste and allows us to actively partake in the sustainable fashion movement.

How have the shoemaking courses evolved? Have you added other courses?

Our shoemaking workshops have always been the star product but we have also offered on rotation apparel, handbags, millinery and small leather goods workshops. I am constantly sourcing new materials, chaining our workshop offering, paying attention to the trends and trying to improve the overall work experiences based on the feedback from our students and clients.

Who are your students? Makers, shoe aficionados or future entrepreneurs like yourself?

All walks of life have stepped through our studio doors over the years. Whether you are looking for a new hobby, creative outlet or thinking of stepping into the industry we have a wide selection of workshops and services suited to all skill levels!

What gives you joy and satisfaction in your work?

I find joy and satisfaction from my daily interactions with other creatives. Creativity is contagious! I am constantly learning from my students and other makers within the community. They keep me on my toes and forever problem solving!

You moved your business to North Bay just as the COVID-19 pandemic got underway in Ontario. Why did you make the move? What was your vision for the company at that time?

Having run Art & Sole out of Toronto for the past 6 years, I was itching for a change! Our rent had also been increased by 60% with very short notice due to new ownership so that ended up being the ultimate push! After much thought, I came to the conclusion that moving to a smaller town would actually provide me with the time and space needed to achieve all of the bigger plans I have had in mind. I felt moving closer to family would also provide a better support system and sense of balance which was an area that was really lacking in my life. North Bay is located a short 3.5 hour drive or 45 min flight North of Toronto. It is a beautiful city surrounded by lakes, beaches and parks making it the perfect escape from the big city!

We now have a beautiful store front located downtown North Bay, ON. In order to maintain our relationships and connect with our past, current and future clientele I am currently working on creating online content, courses and kits with the hopes this will make our programming more accessible to a wider audience. Once the pandemic settles and it is safe to do so, we will also resume our group workshops, studio intensives, offer northern retreats and perhaps take some of our workshops on the road and teach pop ups throughout Canada!

Has that vision changed with the pandemic and as we contemplate the aftermath?

If anything the pandemic has provided me with confirmation that the plan to expand into the digital world is an absolute must if we want to survive these surreal times. As difficult as this pause has been financially, it has also been really refreshing creatively. It has given me time to settle into our new studio, get organized and for the first time be proactive instead of reactive about the future and next steps.

I notice that you are highlighting some of your former students in your Instagram ‘Shoe Stories’ series. You always ask them ‘If you were a shoe what would you be?’ So I’m asking you the same question!

If I was a shoe I would be: A Black Pointy Toe Chelsea Boot detailed in a combination of leather, suede and python with a 2.5’’ heel height! I think this would be the perfect style for a spontaneous Sagittarius like me! A style that you can dress up and dress the down! Ready to tackle whatever comes its way! I believe this versatility really reflects my personality, business and lifestyle!

Thank you so much Jennifer for taking the time to answer our questions! To learn more about Art & Sole Academy, visit her website here.